Skip to main content
The Collation

Through the Photographer’s Lens

A Peek into the Weird and Wonderful World of Early Modern Recipe Books

A paragraph of handwritten text.

Since late 2024, I’ve digitized roughly 50 recipe manuscripts from the Folger Shakespeare Library’s collection. A large-scale project like this requires condition surveys, cataloging, page-level metadata creation, page-by-page digitization, quality assurance checks, and uploading images to our Digital Collections database. It also requires close collaboration with many colleagues in the Collections department, which is one of my favorite aspects. Many of the books I will highlight are available online, but others need more cataloging work before they can be uploaded (and the ones that are already online only have minimal descriptions right now). Rest assured that they will be available for perusal soon!

We call these manuscripts “recipe books”, even though they’re not exactly like modern cookbooks. They were not written for publication; they were made to preserve what people found important for their daily life. This means that, in addition to familiar recipes, we can discover any number of surprises in a recipe book, like something called “snail water”, or veterinary advice, or a spell to cure fever.

I have come across some truly wonderful, and sometimes very weird, things in these books, and I’m excited to share some of my favorite discoveries with you!

Unfortunately, it’s exactly what it sounds like

Have you been diagnosed with Consumption? Well, have I (and several of these recipe books) got a cure for you! It’s a recipe called “Snail Water”, and it’s gonna change the world.

Although there are many versions of this recipe, the one I came across first remains my favorite. First, put a quart of snails in two quarts of milk, then add the beaten yolks of forty eggs. Distill that concoction and drink the resulting liquid twice a day. If it’s too hard to stomach, sweeten with some “brown suger candy”. Eat your heart out, Mary Poppins.

A page from a manuscript recipe book.
“to make a snale water for a consumption”, English cookery and medicine [manuscript], 1670,V.a.674, leaf 68 recto.
A paragraph of handwritten text.
“To make Snaile water”, Culinary recipes and household remedies [manuscript] circa 1690-1700, 272829 MS, leaf 5 verso.

To Bisket or Not to Bizkit?

You might’ve noticed some interesting spelling in the snail water recipes! Spelling wasn’t standardized in the Early Modern period, and people wrote in whatever way made sense to them. I find it reassuring; people 400 years from now will likely still get what you’re talking about, so don’t worry about it too much!

A paragraph of handwritten text.
“To Make Limmon Bisketts”, Recipe book [manuscript], 18 century, 272188 MS, leaf 19 verso.
A handwritten recipe title
“To Make Mackaroomes”, Culinary recipes and household remedies [manuscript] circa 1690-1700, 272829 MS, leaf 21 verso.

Recently, I came across my new favorite spelling of crème brûlée:

A handwritten recipe title
“To make the Cream Brula”, Cookery receipts [manuscript] : manuscript, between circa 1675 and circa 1700, V.a.678, page 224.

Writing practice makes good enough!

I’m often charmed to find pages dedicated to writing practice, and other miscellaneous joys.

A page showing a series of quill marks.
English medicine and cookery, 1600? [manuscript],
V.a.704, [page i].
A page of a book covered in evidence of someone practicing their handwriting.
Receipt book [manuscript], 17 century.
272070 MS, page iii.
A paragraph of handwritten text.
272070 MS, page 50.
A paragraph of handwritten text.
272070 MS, page 74.

Beer for My (Sniffly) Horses

This “Cure for a cold in Horses” was one of the inspirations for writing this post. Right out the gate, it calls for “1 quart of Ale or strong Bear” to warm up for your sniffly equine companion. I’m not sure of its effectiveness as a cold remedy but I’m pretty sure that if you want to party with your horse, this recipe is a good place to start.

A paragraph of handwritten text.
“A Cure for a cold in Horses”, Pocket-book of Henry Ornesbey at al., Lanchester, County Durham [manuscript], ca. 1656-1727,
V.a.671, leaf 7 recto.

Friendship feeds the soul

These books have many recipes attributed to other people, but I usually can’t tell whether the writer knew the source personally. However, 272834 MS is full of personal connections and has become one of my favorite manuscripts. I know now that a woman named Anne Williams had friends named Catherine Jones and Mary Bennet, and I imagine them sitting around a table with their ink, pens, and paper. I imagine them trading recipes in between laughter and meandering conversation, and sometimes I imagine myself sitting with them.

Catherine is mentioned a few times, but Mary often appears throughout the book in small notes; sometimes a “Mary Bennet approved” at the end of a recipe, or simply the initials “MB”.

A page of a book covered in handwritten text.
“To Pickle Wallnuts    MB” and “Aproved by     Pickle for the Wallnuts    Catherin Jones”, Cookbook of Anne Williams [manuscript], circa 1690, 272834 MS, Part I: page 24.

This note resonated with me, as someone with a Catherine in my life who often is a source of lovely recipes:

A few lines of handwritten text
“My Deare friend Catherine Jones was pleased to give me these receates”, 272834 MS, Part I: page 31.

An apple a day…

A surgeon named Hugh Napkyn compiled medicinal recipes into a book in 1631. Among these was a “charme” to cure a fever (“ague” in Early Modern parlance). The steps are quite straightforward: make a hole in an apple large enough for a sprig of rosemary to pass through, divide the apple into three pieces and cut the symbols shown into the slices, then feed the apple to the patient. Once all three pieces have been consumed, burn the rosemary. My favorite part of this spell is a trustworthy-sounding testimonial at the end: “This seldome fayleth (fails) once in three Fitts, to cure either Quotidian or Tertian AGVE, in Men, Woemen, or Children as hath often been prooved.”

A page of a book with several paragraphs of handwritten text with three circular diagrams filling the bottom of the page.
“A Charme”, A booke conteyning divers excellent & approoved remedyes in phisique and chyrugery, 271103 MS, page 98.
A half page of handwritten text.
271103 MS, page 99.

It’s not failure, it’s a learning opportunity!

Those who penned these recipe books were just people, and they suffered cooking failures like anyone else who has ever stepped foot into a kitchen with a recipe and a dream.

A page of a manuscript book.
“To Make Elder flower Wine” with a note at the bottom that just reads, “bad cat pis”, Receipt book [manuscript], 18 century, 271199 MS, leaf 54 verso.
A paragraph of handwritten text crossed out.
“To make carway cake” crossed out, with a note that “this is not a good receet”, Cookbook of Anne Williams [manuscript], circa 1690, 272834 MS,  Part I: page 35.
A page of a manuscript book with cross-outs and notes.
“To make Orange Biskett”, heavily edited,
English receipts & notes on celestial and terrestrial globes [manuscript], 1689 - 3 Dec. 1703. W.a.521, page 94.

Passed through many hands before mine

I’ll leave you with one last wonderful book, 271774 MS, first compiled by a woman named Sarah Jackson in 1688 and passed down through at least six hands. I often think about the hands that have turned these pages and imagine them overlapping with mine while I work.

A handwritten recipe title
English cookery and medicine, 1700? [manuscript], 271774 MS, leaf 22 recto.
A handwritten recipe title
271774 MS, leaf 22 recto.
Handwritten recipe title.
271774 MS, leaf 39 verso.
A handwritten recipe title.
271774 MS, leaf 42 verso.
A handwritten recipe title.
271774 MS, leaf 56 recto.
A handwritten recipe title.
271774 MS, leaf 57 verso
A handwritten recipe title
271774 MS, leaf 88 verso.

Although the recipe book project has its challenges, I love these weird and wonderful books with all my heart. There’s so much more I could say about them, but I’ll leave my commentary here for now. I gotta get back to work photographing the rest of these manuscripts, so you can explore them yourself!

A photograph of a woman adjusting a support holding a manuscript book. Bright light shines down on the setup and black curtains surround them.
Hard at work at my station, photo by Erika Giddens.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *